WB7SGLs Go-Kit

[wb7sgl]

A little background first:My area experienced a wildfire in April, I was in contact with my representative ARES district but was not allowed to contribute due to not having completed the requisite training and background checks. I resolved then and there to get prepared and trained.I have gained training and insight in what I need to have on deployments. My dream list is longer than my budget, I still need a QRP HF rig (and my General  ;D), a dual-band mobile that supports cross-band repeat and additional external power. But I figured I would go ahead and let you all in on what I have built so far and get your input if you have any.I have an old aluminum satcom box but I have serious concerns about stray RF within an enclosed metal container so I ruled it out (though I was thinking it would be a great barrier to EMP should that ever be a concern). I have been looking for a container that would work well, looking at hundreds of photos on Google Images. I kept struggling to find a solution that met my most strict initial requirement: I don't want to have to carry a 50lb go-kit 300 yards up a mountain side to work a deployment so the container has to be self mobile and I cannot take something that is flimsy.Among the planned features for the outfit are:

• Yaesu FT-7900R
• 400W Power Inverter
• 30AH AGM battery
• Perko Battery Switch
• Relatively Water Resistant
• Storage for Coax, binder, tools, adapters, meters and dummy load, etc.

It just so happened that I was walking through my local big-box-hardware store and saw the Stanley Fat-Max toolbox. I was drawn to the large storage area, integral dolly and accordion design. The box is actually very sturdy and had considerable space for location of electrical connectors, coax bulkhead connectors, etc.

The layout of a number of design elements changed as the build progressed. It all started with an insulated aluminum enclosure for the 30AH AGM Battery. I decided that an AC inverter would be a great addition because there are occasions when AC is a necessity. Simply having the AC inside would have been enough but I decided to add an external outlet which proved to be a very easy addition. I knew the DC would have to be fused and I wanted numerous Anderson Powerpole outputs. Going overboard is a character trait of mine and I decided that fusing both Positive and Negative would probably be sufficient so two fuse blocks were in order.

I decided to provide six power outlets, two on exterior of the bottom box, two on the exterior of the top box and two inside of the top box. In addition, I wanted to be able to operate the radios inside the top box with the lid closed (ex. in Snow or Rain) so I added two CAT-5e header connectors. The Yaesu radios allow you to jumper the Mic only or the whole faceplate using the CAT-5e header connectors which allows for considerable flexibility. Audio (external speaker/headphones) will be handled by the RCA audio connectors.

The whole case expands to enable access to the storage compartments. I am able to store a good size first-aid kit, 20m of RG-213 Coax, string, parachute cord, etc. Within the center section I am able to store tools, adapters, wire and connectors.

I am still concerned about not having an AC to DC power supply, but the best I can do for now is add a Perko battery switch with an external 75amp Anderson Powerpole connector that allows me to connect to a vehicle battery or my Deep-Cycle Marine battery that is part of my Solar generator.

I fabbed two aluminum brackets that allow the radio to set completely within the top box, there are two notches on the back bottom edges that allow the radio to sit firmly across the opening. I added a Watts-Up meter so I can keep track of my power consumption on the primary radio. There's probably more I could add, but this has taken long enough to write-up and I want to get to bed 🙂73 to all!RobWB7SGL

Topic

[wb7sgl]

Parts List for Go-Kit:(all of the following are linked to product descriptions online)

Fuse Blocks

[wb7sgl]

From: Phillip Childs To: ldshams@yahoogroups.comSent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 9:31 PMSubject: Re: [ldshams] WB7SGL's Go-Kit approximately how much did it cost to get that assembled minus radios?73,Phillip ChildsKJ4VFO[hr]I will itemize what I bought for the kit:$70 Toolbox$60 Watt's Up$50 Anderson Power Poles (yeah, overkill... 🙂$40 Wire (14GA and 8GA)$4 Wire loom$20 Fuse Blocks$30 Metal (aluminum, etc)$35 Bulkhead Connectors (SO-239, CAT6, etc)$15 Fused power lead$40 Battery Tender Jr$50 35AH Battery (closeout special at Batteries Plus, they were substituting with another battery)

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$414 (plus items already on-hand)I built the unit over the course of three months, another thing that helped was the fact that I tinker a lot and generally don't throw much out that can be reused for something like this.

[mountainfanfare]

Well Done! This gives me some ideas on how to modify my my process. Thanks!

[mrroadwarrior]

very nice setup wish more people would post their pics of these. Thats how I get ideas.

[N7FE]

I would like to get an update on this setup. It gets some OK reviews on Amazon but it also gets quite a number of glaring ones as well.Does this get much use and how is the plastic and plastic wheels holding up?

[wb7sgl]

I would like to get an update on this setup. It gets some OK reviews on Amazon but it also gets quite a number of glaring ones as well.Does this get much use and how is the plastic and plastic wheels holding up?

The box itself is very sturdy. I have not had an issue with the wheels, the box as presently deployed weighs in at about 70 lbs.The extending handle for the "dolly" function is less sturdy than I would prefer but hasn't failed, I noticed this during a recent deployment where I had to drag the unit about 600 feet across a dirt field. Otherwise, I am very pleased with this.73 de WB7SGL

[GeoffreyMoniz]

A little background first:My area experienced a wildfire in April, I was in contact with my representative ARES district but was not allowed to contribute due to not having completed the requisite training and background checks. I resolved then and there to get prepared and trained.I have gained training and insight in what I need to have on deployments. My dream list is longer than my budget, I still need a QRP HF rig (and my General  ;D), a dual-band mobile that supports cross-band repeat and additional external power. But I figured I would go ahead and let you all in on what I have built so far and get your input if you have any.I have an old aluminum satcom box but I have serious concerns about stray RF within an enclosed metal container so I ruled it out (though I was thinking it would be a great barrier to EMP should that ever be a concern). I have been looking for a container that would work well, looking at hundreds of photos on Google Images. I kept struggling to find a solution that met my most strict initial requirement: I don't want to have to carry a 50lb go-kit 300 yards up a mountain side to work a deployment so the container has to be self mobile and I cannot take something that is flimsy.Among the planned features for the outfit are:

• Yaesu FT-7900R
• 400W Power Inverter
• 30AH AGM battery
• Perko Battery Switch
• Relatively Water Resistant
• Storage for Coax, binder, tools, adapters, meters and dummy load, etc.

It just so happened that I was walking through my local big-box-hardware store and saw the Stanley Fat-Max toolbox. I was drawn to the large storage area, integral dolly and accordion design. The box is actually very sturdy and had considerable space for location of electrical connectors, coax bulkhead connectors, etc.

The layout of a number of design elements changed as the build progressed. It all started with an insulated aluminum enclosure for the 30AH AGM Battery. I decided that an AC inverter would be a great addition because there are occasions when AC is a necessity. Simply having the AC inside would have been enough but I decided to add an external outlet which proved to be a very easy addition. I knew the DC would have to be fused and I wanted numerous Anderson Powerpole outputs. Going overboard is a character trait of mine and I decided that fusing both Positive and Negative would probably be sufficient so two fuse blocks were in order.

I decided to provide six power outlets, two on exterior of the bottom box, two on the exterior of the top box and two inside of the top box. In addition, I wanted to be able to operate the radios inside the top box with the lid closed (ex. in Snow or Rain) so I added two CAT-5e header connectors. The Yaesu radios allow you to jumper the Mic only or the whole faceplate using the CAT-5e header connectors which allows for considerable flexibility. Audio (external speaker/headphones) will be handled by the RCA audio connectors.

The whole case expands to enable access to the storage compartments. I am able to store a good size first-aid kit, 20m of RG-213 Coax, string, parachute cord, etc. Within the center section I am able to store tools, adapters, wire and connectors.

I am still concerned about not having an AC to DC power supply, but the best I can do for now is add a Perko battery switch with an external 75amp Anderson Powerpole connector that allows me to connect to a vehicle battery or my Deep-Cycle Marine battery that is part of my solar panels.

I fabbed two aluminum brackets that allow the radio to set completely within the top box, there are two notches on the back bottom edges that allow the radio to sit firmly across the opening. I added a Watts-Up meter so I can keep track of my power consumption on the primary radio. There's probably more I could add, but this has taken long enough to write-up and I want to get to bed 🙂73 to all!RobWB7SGL

Looks like exceptional kit.. Very compact and seems to be very effective.. I am trying to get similar second hand kit in good condition.

[wb7sgl]

I was recently asked about how I setup the lower box. The photos I posted don't have much detail so I took a few new pictures:[img]http://www.ldshams.com/images/box/IMG_5231.JPG[/img]This shows the bottom section without any of the additional stuff I have (coax, first aid kit, tools, rope, etc.)At the top are the fuse blocks, all positive and negative power feeds are individually fused. Below the plate with the fuse blocks are the 400w Power Inverter and a 12v Accessory socket (left side under the cable bundles) for USB charging and the like.[img]http://www.ldshams.com/images/box/IMG_5232.JPG[/img]A front view of the inverter and the accessory socket.[img]http://www.ldshams.com/images/box/IMG_5233.JPG[/img]The exterior duplex outlet on the side of the box has a short 'extension cord' which plugs into the open socket on the inverter.[img]http://www.ldshams.com/images/box/IMG_5234.JPG[/img]Top view of the battery. I was especially concerned about the possibility of a short circuit on the battery so I did as much as I could to avoid it. The horizontal bars for the metal box run inside the box so the sheet metal is purposely spaced away from the terminals. There is approx 2" of clearance between the top of the battery and the deck the inverter is mounted to. The wires going out of the back of the box feed to the Perko [1] / [Both] / [2] power switch on the back allowing you to select the internal battery (1), the External battery connection (2) or Both.[img]http://www.ldshams.com/images/box/IMG_5238.JPG[/img]The super technical non-conductive spacer which protects the battery from sliding up and shorting on the deck which covers it. Yes, it's a plastic shallow double gang box. I know, very redneck, but it works! And, best of all, it was cheap!That's it for this update. Let me know if you have any further questions on this.After having this for several years, I can recommend it. I have had numerous occasions to use it and having so much gear in a mobile friendly platform is really convenient.73 - WB7SGLRob

[AC0PR]

My go-kit is not that elaborate, especially with the power source since it's a whole separate thing. But each time I see a new one, it gives me ideas as well. This one is all mode, all band in a hard suitcase from DI. Anyway, I'll attach a photo.

[aranius]

First, I love the go box! Second, I am looking to build one and I think I am going to build one based on the pelican 1450 case. They are small, and it won’t include a battery. This is where I have questions… How many AH’s are sufficient? I have gone back and forth from getting a gigantic 200AH battery, all the way down to an 18AH battery…

 

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